Lidia's Italy

2½ pounds celery
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 garlic cloves, crushed and peeled
2 medium onions, thinly sliced
1 teaspoon kosher salt
½ teaspoon peperoncino
½ cup pitted black olives
3 tablespoons tomato paste
2 cups water, hot

Separate the heads of celery, and wash and trim the stalks. Shave tough outer ribs with a vegetable peeler or paring knife, removing thick skin and strings. Cut the stalks crosswise, including leafy parts, into 4-inch pieces (or smaller chunks if you prefer).

Pour the olive oil into a saucepan, set it over medium heat, stir in the garlic cloves and sliced onions, and heat until sizzling. Heap the celery in the pan, sprinkle over it the salt and peperoncino, and stir and toss, coating the celery chunks with oil. Cook over medium heat about 5 minutes, stirring occasionally, as the celery starts cooking. Stir in the olives, turn up the heat a bit, and sauté the vegetables about 15 minutes, tossing and stirring now and then, until the celery and onions are softened and caramelized on the edges.

Meanwhile, stir and blend the tomato paste in the 2 cups of hot water to make a braising liquid. When the celery is lightly browned, pour in the tomato water and bring it to a boil. Cover the pan, and adjust the heat to maintain a steady, gentle perking. Cook about 45 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the celery is completely tender and caramelized and the liquid has reduced to a glaze. Serve right away as a side dish, or let it cool to room temperature. Leftover celery will keep in the refrigerator for a few days and freezes well.